Paper Theory's Zadie Jumpsuit!

In this post, you will learn about how I chose the size and the adjustments I made to have an awesome fitted Zadie Jumpsuit! A cult favorite! :) #thehemlineeclectic #zadiejumpsuit #papertheory

When I decided I wanted to start making garments for myself, this jumpsuit jumped out at me. Everyone was talking about how easily it comes together and I had to give it a try.

To Toile or not to Toile??

When you first start making your own clothes, I highly recommend making toiles. This process allows you practice techniques that are new and you will not be wasting good fabric. You will also understand better how to fit clothes to your own body.

I am short waisted and I have a short rise compared to most standard patterns. So I always find that clothes fit me better when I shorten the torso between my shoulders and my breasts and pants fit me better when I shorten the rise.

That said, I don't always toile these days. If it is a very fight fitted garment, like pants or fitted bodice, I just go by the finished garment measurements, decide how fitted I want look to be and go with that. So far it has only failed me once!! Sigh! It was not a good day!

Fitting my Zadie

The Zadie jumpsuit is designed with a lot of ease! You can see that when you see the finished garment measurements that match your body proportions.

I am Bust 37, Waist 29 and Hips 39. Being short waisted, I prefer to wear outfits that are fitted at the waist and the looser below. So I decided yo go with their lowest size, 6.

Another issue that is common with people that are short waisted is that V-necks and wrap tops can be a pain. They hang too low showing more than what you are comfortable with, or gap too much. So where you shorten the bodice becomes very important. If you shorten a sleeved bodice between the shoulders and breast, you need to account for the change in armscye as well. Since the Zadie has Dolman sleeves, we are GOOD TO GO!

Toile 1 - Zadie #1

For my first Toile, I shortened the rise by 1 inch (front and back). This gave me a great fit for the pants but my bodice gapped a lot and the neckline plunged more than I would like. When I first made this, I did not understand how to finish seams with my sewing machine (I did not own a serger), or the importance of pressing!! 😊 But I did learn to make my own bias tape and bind the neckline, I learnt how to construct the garment, how the bodice is attached, so so many things!

Toile 2 - Zadie #2

Since my first toile was mostly OK. I decided to make my self another Zadie where I shortened the bodice (front and back) by 1 inch.

What are these arrows in the pattern??

Zadie was the first sewing pattern I printed at home, stuck together and traced. I did not understand what these arrows (that mark the grainline) were , so I just drew wobbly lines by hand (no ruler) and went on to cutting my fabric. I realized that the arrows help while cutting but never thought about how they might help in fitting! Sigh!

Never the less, I realized that sewing can be very forgiving. I shortened the bodice by 1 inch (front and back) and made a new Zadie. This time I was very inspired by Kelli from True Bias's version of Zadie in a Rayon Challis fabric designed with Workroom social. Kelli had modified the silhouette by narrowing the legs evenly on either sides! I was ready to take on this new modification!

I used an old baby wrap I loved for this project and I was thrilled I could upcycle this amazing fabric.

Was that enough of a challenge?? NO! I decided to try my hand at pattern matching. 😍

This Zadie fit better thank my first toile. However the neckline was pulling a little when worn for a long time. I needed some more length.

I can still comfortably wear this Zadie, I do love the slimmer silhouette. To achieve this, I basically basted the pants from the hem and blended at the pockets until I liked the fit. I narrowed the hem by 6 inches at the bottom and met at the hips. I decided to distribute this evenly between the inseam and the outer leg seam (3 inches either sides). This worked out beautifully!! Thanks to Kelli from True Bias for the alteration tips!

I settled on my final modifications

1. Shorten front and back bodice by 1/2inch

2, Shorten front and back rise by 1 inch.

Zadie #3

Phew!! This had been a huge learning curve already. I felt I am now going to make a perfect Zadie! I also learnt to finish my seams with an over-casting stitch or pinking shears! I felt so much more confident.

I decided to make a Zadie Romper! I decided to use fabric I purchased! This beautiful block print was purchased from iTokri.

To make the romper, I decided to cut the fabric at about 5 inches below the crotch inseam. I tested out the length a few times before a hemmed the garment!!! This was an absolute beauty for the summertime!

This pattern gave me so much love and joy, I shared it by making one for my sister (she is the same size as me) and a close friend (my first garment made for someone else that needed fit adjustments). Check out my instagram posts for more Zadies!!

Techniques to learn

1. How to make double fold bias tape

2. How to sew double fold bias tape to finish the neckline

3. How to sew pockets

4. How to sew pants

5. How to attached a bodice to pants

Styling

In this post, I have styles my Zadie with my brown ankle boots from Cole Haan. For the romper I am wearing my Dr. Marten's sandals.

Get Inspired!!

Finally, keep at it. Msg me if you any questions! I leave you here with some amazing Zadie Inspirations! I made this out of Evo Vero Viscose twill I purchased from Blackbird fabrics #blackbirdfabrics. I loved working with it. It has such a beautiful drape.

#thehemlineeclectic #slowsewing #indiepatterns #indiesewing #sewcialists #handmadewardrobe #handmadefashion