Perfect casual shirt - A wardrobe staple The New Look 6197

In this post, I will walk you through how I made the woman's version of this New Look pattern #thehemlineeclectic #newlook6197

Everyone needs a button-up shirt like this in their wardrobe. It is very relaxed and yet can be very flattering.

The Pattern

I first saw this unisex pattern on the Great British Sewing Bee where the contestants had to make a Men's holiday shirt. I bought this pattern to make a shirt for my husband. He absolutely loves his and I have made him several of these.

Since this was a unisex pattern, 2 out of the 3 views are a woman's shirt with bust darts and a very slight shaping.

I chose to make View C (with sleeves).

The shirt has a collar that directly attaches to the shirt with no collar stand, giving it a more relaxed look.

I chose to cut out a size 12. I did NOT perform any modifications to this pattern.

The Fabric

I fell in love with this rayon poplin fabric from Fabric.com as soon as I saw it. I bought it not knowing what I was going to make with it.

This fabric is very lightweight and looks partially sheer but against my skin it is totally fine. I am not wearing a tank top inside.

The fabric was very easy to work with and I used my usual techniques of working with rayons. You can read more about it from my previous post here.

Next time I make this shirt for myself, I would cut out 2 yokes and make an encased yoke instead for a much better finish.

One advantage of Big 4 patterns is that they all use a 5/8 inch seam allowance. This allows you to comfortably french seam your garment!. I used french seams on the inside of this shirt because of how delicate this fabric is and it totally paid off. :)

Sewing the shirt

Did you know that there is a difference between a button-down shirt and a button-up shirt?

I just learnt today (from the love to sew podcast) that any shirt that has a button that buttons down the collar points to the shirt front is a button-down shirt and when the collar cannot be buttoned, it is called a button-up shirt.

So this would be a button-up shirt!!

The instructions for this shirt are pretty straightforward and it was a pretty quick sew (since I have previously made this shirt many times for my husband)

I thought I would take the side seams in if I needed but I loved how this ease looked on my and left it as is.

Techniques you will learn

Since this is a Big 4 pattern, the instructions are not similar to the 30 odd pages of detailed instructions and meticulous illustrations you will find in a indie-sewing pattern. However, the instructions are succinct enough that and you can challenge yourself.

If you choose to make this pattern and this is your first shirt, you will learn to

1. Sew a front button placket

2. Sew a collar

3. Sew buttons and buttonholes

4. Attach a sleeve

Get Inspired

I absolutely love this shirt and get plenty of wear out of it. I think it will very easily become your wardrobe staple. This same pattern would look great in a floral fabric and I hope to make one for the spring time! I leave you here with more pictures to inspire you!